Studio Diary

STUDIO DIARY

What with the winter being a disaster healthwise and working on a secret project which for now must remain nameless, I haven’t actually made all that much Baue this year. But!

This week I’ve started sewing more Lauren shirts. They’ve proved to be a popular shape in both their navy blue and teal iterations.

This time they will come in black and ivory.

I’m starting with the black and have cut one of each size.

Each shirt will be made from three fabrics:

Viscose crepe: light, breathable, with a soft drape that moves like silk but wears more easily

Simla silk: a matte, slightly textured weave made from silk noil (the shorter silk fibres as opposed to the longer finer ones used for silk satins) which give it its nubby, linen like feel. Great explainer here if you’d like to geek out.

Hammered satin: smoother, with a subtle sheen that catches the light as you move. A good weight which drapes luxuriously.

After cutting, I always begin with the pockets.

With experience, I’ve learned the only way to get a really crisp, even finish is to press the seam allowances round a template first, then topstitch them onto the shirt. I mark the exact position with temporary hand stitches.